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Indonesia: life returns to normal in the devastated port town of Chalang
9 August 2005
by Karl Schuler in Chalang, Indonesia
The small town of Chalang, on the northwest coast of Sumatra, juts like a peninsula into the Indian Ocean. Surrounded by palm-covered hills, the town, with its port and fish market, once presented an idyllic image to the world. The deadly tsunami that swept over it on the morning of 26 December 2004, however, left not a single building standing in its wake. Of the 12,000 people who once lived in Chalang and the surrounding area, only 3,500 are reported to have survived.

Suherman, a 16-year-old Indonesian Red Cross volunteer, is one of the survivors. Alerted by the earthquake that preceded the tsunami, he and his parents, brothers and sisters fled to a village in the hills. Five days later, he made his way back to what was left of the town, where he encountered the first rescue workers of the Indonesian Red Cross Society (Palang Merah Indonesia, or PMI). Although the road no longer existed, they had managed to work their way in from the provincial capital, Banda Aceh, 120 kilometres distant. Most of them had been studying there but were originally from Chalang.

A fledgling member of the recently-founded Red Cross Youth of Chalang, Suherman threw himself heart and soul into the rescue and clearance operations. “The first days and weeks, we collected the bodies and helped the survivors find a place to put up a temporary shelter of blankets and plastic sheets”, he calmly explains. He points to the place where his school once stood: there was nothing left. He knows that at least 15 of his 56 classmates perished. The total number of victims remains to be finalized, however, as many families left after the disaster.

Suherman is now part of a group of Red Cross Youth volunteers who share a temporary wooden barrack belonging to the local PMI with older Red Cross volunteers. Together, they organize the distribution of relief goods to 15,000 people scattered throughout 31 villages and in several barracks in and around Chalang. Hengky G. Alvarez, the International Federation delegate, shows us the stock of relief supplies, carefully stored in two large tent warehouses. On the day of our visit, preparations were under way for a distribution in Deah Baru camp, situated just outside Chalang, not far from the coast, and home to 256 families living in temporary barracks. Before the tsunami, Deah Baru had been home to 1,900 people. Only a third survived.

The village chief, 45-year-old Mr Satria, is now in charge of the camp. He explains why Red Cross aid remains vital: “Before the disaster, most of the families farmed, fished or had small businesses. They have lost everything; they have no regular income and are therefore happy to receive the food, toiletries and other basic goods distributed by the Red Cross once a month”. Under money-for-work programmes, the irrigation canals are being repaired and the rice paddies, flooded by sea water, desalinated. But it will be several months before the first crop of rice can be harvested, if all goes well.

Suherman actively helps distribute basic necessities to the people in the wooden building. Everything has been scrupulously prepared: the names of the 256 heads of families figure on pre-established lists; the items distributed – oil, sugar, salt, sheets and jerry cans – are listed in detail, each beneficiary signing to confirm receipt.

The Government has decided to rebuild Chalang and to rehabilitate it as the district seat. Today visitors are struck most by the tents and prefabricated buildings that house the offices of numerous international and Indonesian aid agencies, right next to the former port. The Spanish section of Médecins du Monde has opened a well-equipped field hospital that includes a maternity ward. Wooden barracks housing more than 3,000 homeless people are situated on the outskirts of town. A lively street market with stands and food stalls fills the road. The Red Cross will help rebuild homes and community facilities.

Chalang will re-emerge from the devastation, thanks in part to the devotion and courage of Suherman and other young people his age.


Suherman and Isvandi, Red Cross Youth of Chalang volonteers.
Suherman and Isvandi, Red Cross Youth of Chalang volonteers. Photo: International Federation (p13051)
RELATED LINKS
Tsunami operation
Youth Red Cross
More news stories
Sunshine in Chalang. The Red Cross will help rebuild homes and community facilities.
Sunshine in Chalang. The Red Cross will help rebuild homes and community facilities. Photo: International Federation (p13052)
Red Cross Youth volunteers and rescue workers of the Indonesian Red Cross Society (Palang Merah Indonesia, or PMI) are organizing the distribution of relief goods to 15,000 people scattered throughout 31 villages and in several barracks in and around Chalang.
Red Cross Youth volunteers and rescue workers of the Indonesian Red Cross Society (Palang Merah Indonesia, or PMI) are organizing the distribution of relief goods to 15,000 people scattered throughout 31 villages and in several barracks in and around Chalang. Photo: International Federation (p13056)