Tuesday 4 October
Another early start today. We are travelling back
to Niamey. I need to be there as early as possible
and do some work at the office. On the way we see
many women and children walking. After a few minutes
of wondering where they are going I proudly see the
Federation warehouse and one of the supplementary
feeding centers already open.
After more than 5,000 km on the road I've managed
to finally overcome my motion-sickness and I am able
to read and do some work in my computer while moving,
which makes this trip feel a bit shorter and less
boring. Meanwhile, the driver amuses us with West
African music, especially from Mali.
Monday 3 October
Back in Maradi, back to work. Another busy week is
ahead of us. The weekend seems suddenly very far away.
Sunday 2 October
Although the rainy season officially ended on September
20, rain surprises us all in the early hours of the
morning. We wait in the tents trying not to get too
wet, concerned about the development of the day.
Today, special acts were going to take place for the
authorities coming from Maradi and Dakoro.
Luckily the rain stops at around 10 o'clock. We head
towards the center of the improvised village looking
for something to warm us up. Fortunately Margi, the
food security person at Oxfam I'm with, can speak
a bit of the local languages and we manage to get
some food for breakfast. We are also invited to some
tea at a market stand: a very good place from where
to watch and talk to people passing by.
The official ceremony opens with speeches followed
by the Fulani dances and singing we saw last night.
In the background, proudly and elegantly sitting on
their camels, Tuaregs watch the performance. They
too come into the scene. A group of beautifully dressed
and made-up Tuareg women start singing and drumming.
This is the sign for the men to show their ability
on their camels by making them dance. It is amazing
to see. I feel privileged.
Sadly we have to make our way back to Dakoro. Although
festivities will continue tomorrow, we have to go
back to the office. On the way back, due to the heavy
rain, we get stuck on mud twice which makes the return
even harder.
I felt this to be a very natural part of the Fulani
culture that is still untouched. I hope it will stay
like this.
Saturday 1 October
We get contradictory and worrying news: some people
say that the Gerewol won't take place where originally
planned, others say that won't happen at all. We decide
to go and find out for ourselves. Very thrilled about
what we might see, we head to Akadany, another three
hours drive from Dakoro, this time on a sandy trail
through the bush.
Sure enough, we meet people on the road, some walking,
some on their donkeys or camels with their possessions
heading towards Akadany. That reassures us we are
on the right path and that the festival will actually
take place.
As we arrive we see the surrounding fields full of
Woodabi houses consisting of one bed made of sticks
covered with mats and plastic sheeting, as well as
Tuareg's made of animal skin. We are greeted by the
major of Bermo who shows us where we will stay –
in two Woodabi tents furniture with a bed decorated
with beads and small mirrors, near a lake.
We wander around to get a feel of the place. Meanwhile
people keep arriving with their animals. We are told
that the festival won't start until the afternoon
with dancing and singing.
As the sun is setting, groups of young men dressed
up in embroidered robes, some with animal skin boubous,
start gathering and singing. Their faces are painted
with natural based makeup, predominantly yellow with
black kohl around the eyes. Around them, young women
come to look for the man with the most beautiful singing
voice. The men’s white teeth and the whites
of their eyes gleam as they perform.
This lasts until late at night.
This year the Gerewol is not as big as last year.
We are told that baptisms won't take place since,
for the ceremony, a cow has to be sacrificed and many
of the pastoralists have lost if not all, a very large
number of their cattle. Others simply won't come.
Oxfam, through their programme, will help pastoralists
in the area restock their cattle numbers. The Red
Cross are looking into doing the same in other parts
of the country.
Friday 30 September
After finishing some things in the office, I head
towards Dakoro, three hours north of Maradi on a very
bumpy road, where Oxfam has got voucher-for-work programmes
in the pastoral zone. This weekend is the Gerewol
and I've been invited to see it.
The Gerewol is a traditional Fulani festival, a specialty
of the Woodabi. Everyone gathers after coming back
from up north in the Agadez area, where they go for
salty water and salty grass for their cattle. The
Woodabi traditionally get married and celebrate christenings
during the annual Gerewol.
I am really looking forward to it.
Disaster management
